Manufacture of turned shoes



ril 27, 1926.

F. E. TOOTHAKER MANUFACTURE OF TURNED SHOES Filed Nov. 26, 1920 Patented Apr. 27, me

UNITED STATES rseznea rn'rsnr orr ca FRED E. TOOTI-IAKER, or SWAMPSCOTT, raassncrrosnr'rs, assrenon ro Unrrnn snon MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF ra'rnason, new JERSEY, A ooaronnrron on NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE or TURNED sHons.

Application filed November 26, 1920. Serial No. 426,446.

I '0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRED E. Too'ri-rAKnR, a citizen of the United States, residing at Swampscott, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of Turned Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characterson the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures. This invention relates to theman'ufacture of turned shoes and is herein illustrated in connection with a turned shoe having an underwedge.

Hitherto in manufacturing a childs turned shoe having animderwedge and a nailed heel seat it has been customary to place wrong side out upon the first last a sole together with an assembled upper, lining and unmolded counter, to sew the upper and lining to the sole around the forepart and shank leaving the heel portion open,'then side out, and insert the shank piece, there afterto lift up the free heel end of the sole, last the heel portion of the upper andlining over upon'the counterandshank piece, and then to insert the underwedge and nail it in place.

According to the present invention the underwedge is attached to the molded sole before the sole is placed upon the first last; and the counter, which is a molded one, is not assembled with the upper and lining but is attached to the shoe while the shoe is wrong side out upon the first last. By making the shoe in this manner all the advan first last at the completion of the sewingoperation, certain parts having been broken away and the stitches at one side of the shoe having been pulled out;

to remove the first last, turn the shoe right Fig. 2 is a perspective of the shoe as it appears after the heel portion of the upperhils been, ted and the molded counter attached. 1

In the manufacture of the shoe the sole 3 l is first shouldered and channeled or merely channeled according to the style. of sewing which is to beemployed. The sole ,is then molded in a manner to prepare it to receive the imderwedge 5, the molding operation consisting in forming a sharp break or bend across the sole along a line which will register substantially with the forward edge of the underwedge, the heel portion of the sole being forced into a lower level than I the adjoining shank portion; To the heel portlon of the sole thus molded the underwedge having its forward edge properly beveled is attached preferably by cement. The channel of the sole is now extended into the underwedge by making a slit in the underwedge as shown in Fig. 1, or the slit or opening may be made in the underwedge before it is attached to the sole, the slit being slit is to provide a continuation of the channel in the sole in which the channel guide 7 ofthe-sewing machine, which is located in advance of the needle 9, may run at-the end of the sewing operation so that the last stitch may be made close to the forward edge of the underwedge. It may bedesii able in somecases to take one or more stitchesin the underwedge itself; and this maybe done properly ifthe shoe is so held that the needle enters the exposed upper surface ofthe underwedge. Ordinarily, however, the stitches will terminate just in advance of the forward edge of the under wedge. v

The sole and underwedge assembled and prepared as has been described together with anassembled upper 10 and lining 12 are placed wrong side out upon a last 11 the ieel portion of whichmay be recessed to provide space for the extra thickness caused by superposing the underwedge upon the sole. Thelining is slit at two opposite points in the locality of the forward edge of the counter, and the heel portion of the lining is turned back into the position shown.

'inade at that end of the channel at which the sewing is toend. The purpose of this The upper and lining forwardly of the slits underwedge providing for the channel guide and permitting the sewing to be carried to the. forward edge of the underwedge. The heel port-ion of the upper is neat lasted over the underwedge and fastened to it by tacks.

A molded counter 13 together with a reinforcing member or tuck 15, which has been previously assembled with and fastened to the counter by staples 17, is placed right side up upon the shoe while the shoe is wrong side out and fastened to the underwedge and sole by tacks 19, neither the tacks 19 nor the tacks (not shown) which fasten the heel portion of the upper in lasted position being long enough to pass through the sole.

Thereafter the shoe is turned right side out and its manufacture completed by pulling the heel portion of the lining over the inside of the counter, bending its lower margin inwardly so that it lies upon the tuck, inserting a shank stiffener, inserting the second last and nailing the heel seat. These latter operations are or may be performed substantially as described fully in the patent to J. H. Connor No. 1,302,995, and will not be described here in detail.

By manufacturing the shoe in the manner which has been described, all the advantages inherent in the use of a molded counter, which are fully set forth in the patent to Thissell No. 1,302,994: and in that of Connor, are secured and the underwedge is located with extreme accuracy.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let ters Patent of the United States is:

1. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises permanently attaching to a molded and channeled sole an underwedge provided with a recess to register with one end of the channel, the remaining upper surface of the underwedge being fiat and unbroken, placing wrong side out upon a last the assembled sole and underwedge together with an upper, sewing the forepart of the upper to the sole, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the flat surface of theunderwedge and nailing it to the underwedge, and thereafter completing the manufacture of the shoe.

2. The method of making aturned shoe having a sewed forepart and a nailed heel seat which comprises channeling a sole which is of substantially uniform thickness throughout, molding the sole by breaking it in the'locality of the heel portion, permanently attaching to the sole an underwedge having a recess to receive the guide of the sewing machine by the use of which the forepart of the upper is to-be attached to the sole, placing wrong side out upon a last the permanently attached sole and underwed e. sewing the forepart of the upper to the sole, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon and nailing it to the underwedge and thereafter turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

3. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises permanently attaching an underwedge to a molded and channeled sole, placing wrong side out upon a last the assembled sole and underwedge, together wit-h an upper, sewing the forepart of the upper to the sole, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the underwedge, attaching a molded counter and thereafter turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

4. The method of making :1. turned shoe which comprises permanentlyfattaching an underwedge to a molded and channeled sole, extending the channel of the sole into the underwedge, placing wrong side out upon a last the attached sole and underwedge, together with an upper, sewing the forepart of the upper, lasting the heel portion over upon and fastening it to the underwedge, attaching a molded counter and thereafter turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

5. The method of making a turned shoe whichcomprises molding a sole to receive an underwedge, permanently attaching the underw-edge to the sole, placing wrong side out upon a last the assembled sole and underwedgetogether with an assembled upper and lining, slitting the lining and turning back the heel portion thereof, sewing the upper and lining to the sole forwardly of the slits, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the underwedge and fastening it by metallic fasteners which do not pass through the sole, attaching a molded counter to the underwedge and sole by metallic fasteners which do not pass through the sole, and thereafter turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

6. The method of making a turned shoe which comprises permanently attaching an underwedge to a molded and channeled sole, extending the channel of the sole into the underwedge, placing wrong side out upon a last the sole and its attached underwedge together with an assembled upper, sewing the upper to the sole forwardly of the under wedge, lasting the heel portion of the upper over upon the underwedge, attaching a molded counter to the underwedge and thereafter turning the shoe right side out and completing its manufacture.

7. A step product in the manufacture of a turned shoe which is to have asewed forepart and a nailed heel-seat comprising a molded and channeled sole having permauently attached to its heel portion an underwedge provided with a slit or opening adapted to receive the guide of a sewing machine, said slit or opening being shaped to prevent the sewing operation from being continued around the underwedge, the upper surface of the unclerwedge being flat and unbroken to permit the heel portion of the upperto be lasted over and nailed to it.

8. A turned shoe having an underwedge attached directly to the sole, a counter at- 'taehed t6 the underwedge, and the heel portion of the upper lasted over upon and nailed to the underwedge.

In testimony. whereof I have 11111116130 this specification.

FRED E. TOOTHAKERY signed my 

